Three Methods, Very Different Results

Custom apparel printing has never been more accessible, but choosing the wrong method can mean wasted money, disappointing results, or garments that fade after a few washes. This guide compares the three dominant techniques — Direct-to-Garment (DTG), screen printing, and dye sublimation — so you can make the right call for your project.

Direct-to-Garment (DTG) Printing

DTG printing works like an inkjet printer for fabric. A specialised printer sprays water-based inks directly onto the garment surface, which are then heat-cured to bond with the fibres.

Best for:

  • Complex, photographic, or full-colour designs
  • Small order quantities (even single units)
  • Designs that change between items (personalisation)
  • Cotton or cotton-blend garments

Limitations:

  • Not cost-effective for large bulk orders
  • Results on dark garments require a white underbase, increasing cost
  • Performs poorly on polyester or synthetic fabrics
  • Wash durability is slightly lower than screen printing

Screen Printing

Screen printing pushes ink through a mesh screen (stencil) onto the garment. Each colour in the design requires a separate screen. It's the oldest and most established method in the apparel industry.

Best for:

  • Large volume orders (typically 24+ pieces)
  • Bold, graphic designs with limited colours (1–6 colours)
  • Long-lasting prints that withstand frequent washing
  • Most fabric types including cotton, polyester, and blends
  • Specialty ink effects: metallic, glow-in-the-dark, puff, discharge

Limitations:

  • High setup cost (screen creation per colour) makes low quantities expensive
  • Not practical for photographic or gradient designs
  • Each colour change adds cost

Dye Sublimation

Sublimation uses heat and pressure to turn special ink into a gas that permanently bonds with polyester fibres. The ink becomes part of the fabric rather than sitting on top of it.

Best for:

  • All-over (edge-to-edge) printing on garments
  • Sportswear, activewear, and performance apparel
  • Full-colour photographic designs
  • White or very light-coloured polyester garments
  • Items requiring no cracking or peeling — ever

Limitations:

  • Only works on polyester or polymer-coated substrates
  • Cannot print on dark fabrics (ink is transparent)
  • Not suitable for natural fibres like cotton

Side-by-Side Comparison

Factor DTG Screen Print Sublimation
Minimum Quantity 1 12–24+ 1
Colour Complexity Unlimited Limited (per screen) Unlimited
Best Fabric Cotton Most fabrics Polyester only
Durability Good Excellent Excellent
All-Over Print No No Yes
Cost at Scale High Low Medium

Which Should You Choose?

There's no universal winner — the best method depends on your specific needs:

  1. Need 1–20 complex, full-colour items? → DTG is your best bet.
  2. Ordering 50+ shirts with a bold logo? → Screen printing will deliver the best value.
  3. Creating all-over polyester sportswear? → Sublimation is the only real option.

When in doubt, request samples from your printer before committing to a full production run.